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I learned a lot I think the morning of 17/04/2012 when Clan went back in the water. The stuffing box I had greased was letting water pour in at a pretty alarming rate, and if I pushed or prodded the rubber around water flowed in more like the rate of a faucet. My inspection and grease the week before was apparently quite inadequate. I managed to slip grease in by pinching and sliding the end of a cable/zip-tie loaded with marine grease in, then un-pinching and sliding it back out. About an hour of doing this and the water came to drips, and not long after that, stopped all together.
Currently we have a crappy electric cooler, which if I've done the math right, uses more battery (around 4 amps for a new one) than a real compressor.
The Isotherm units look okay: specifically the Classic Compact 2005/6
Tempo has the 2006, a larger plate than the 2005, for 3500dkk. They also have a køleskab kit with insulation etc, for 1270dkk. An expensive pair, but it will allow us to make use of a space we can't currently reach (sealed off behind the stove), and allow us to get more space by getting rid of the giant cooler.
Silvan has this "super EPS" insulation, very cheap, but only in 140mm thickness (too thick). They also have the cheaper stuff, which is probably perfectly adequate.
For running off of shore power, a battery charger with at least 5 amp capacity (more is obviously better) is recommended.
Found one person's from-scratch installation on a Marieholm 26, here.
Because of the very narrow opening for the locker (15.5cm), we'll likely need to have the “front” section of insulation partially attached to the lid, going vertically down, with an angled transition so we can fit things in more easily (need to sketch this). Insulation is supposed to be 10cm/4in. all around.
The Isotherm's use a Danfoss BD35, dimensions of the compressor are: 10.63” x 6.31“ x 13” or 27cm x 16cm x 33cm.
The manual for a 2006 specifies insulation of 5cm thickness for a 2.8 cu. in. box, we'll have roughly a 2.6 cu. in. box, so 5cm/2“ thickness it is.
The locker:
http://www.dba.dk/31-fods-havkrydser/id-72263946/
http://smhavn.dk/con24.php4
http://iw31.blogspot.com
http://www.stormy-iw31.eu/7572/
http://www.stormy-iw31.eu/5881/
http://www.iw31.de/bilder/index.html
http://sy-juliette.de/
http://www.halse.de/
http://sparkmanstephens.blogspot.com/2011/02/design-1899-iw-31-class.html
http://mermaidscheveningen.webklik.nl/page/ontwerp
http://www.iw31-wismar.de/
http://www.iw31.dk/
http://www.iwrig.com/57718625
http://eskapad.wordpress.com/
http://mermaidscheveningen.webklik.nl/page/ontwerp
http://www.klassiekepolyesterjachten.nl/page/OverOns
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=5505
http://www.s-and-s-association.org/
http://www.sparkmanstephens.info/doc/5702458zUBmMLGktd9U2RAC4CT7yqTe9.pdf
http://www.hinnerk-weiler.de/
http://www.youtube.com/hinnerkWeiler
http://www.youtube.com/user/ottorino43 (commented on a video that he owns an IW 31)
http://www.youtube.com/user/essen222 (commented on a video that he owns an IW 31)
https://picasaweb.google.com/116970321897372292619/IW31Havskum#
Bronze equipment (from the U.S.) they have a bronze chain-cover, bronze bow-roller, and an awesome “mid-rail” chock that has a cleat in the center (just realized we can't do the mid-rail chock because the genoa car track is over the center of the rail):
http://spartanmarine.com/catalog.html
Also bronze cast parts from Port Townsend Foundry:
http://www.porttownsendfoundry.com/
There's also casting one from scratch: http://students.washington.edu/sailing/telltale/fall2000/bronze.html
Volvo parts:
http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7726000-30-11707.aspx
Acrylic/Windows:
http://plastbutikken.dk/produkter/27-akryl-plexiglas/
http://www.bengco.co.uk/
http://www.sigmarine.com/manuals/SIG%20Solid%20Fuel%20Heater%20Manual%202011-2.pdf
http://www.peluke.com/Site/Fireplaces.html
http://www.pascallatkey.co.uk
http://www.refleks-olieovne.dk/default.asp?PageNumber=3460
http://www.refleks-olieovne.dk/default.asp?PageNumber=3456
http://www.dickinsonmarine.com/dheaters.php
Original sales materials: iw_31_brochure.zip
Things I'd like to have are:
TI bq2050 single-wire serial output IC
DW2438 based monitor
Someone's nice Arduino based with Hall-effect current sensor
cheap-o off-the-shelf model
Expensive Maretron NMEA 2000 model with current sensor
Hall-effect sensor chip
This one is a wind speed & current sensor for a wind generator, but has aspects useful for battery/power monitoring:
Wind generator speed sensor
I already have an NMEA 0183 output smart depth transducer, but could I convert the output to NMEA 2000?
NMEA 2000 is based on the CAN bus spec, at 250khz transmission rate. Sparkfun has CAN bus Arduino shields, which I've ordered and will attempt to reverse engineer the NMEA 2000 messages with. The bus contains two wires for power, and two for serial data. It's terminated with 120 ohm resistors, so it should look like 60 ohms to a meter. More info:
Controller_area_network
CAN info from the CiA
J1939 message format notes from the CiA
I have a couple of NMEA 2000 instruments now, but my plotter is older and not NMEA 2000 capable. That makes cabling the old stuff still a little painful- however, not if one powers known to be low-powered devices off the NMEA 2000 bus by using a field-installable male connector with only power connections wired. I tested with my 3005c plotter, old NMEA 0183 17HVS antenna, and don't see any issue with this arrangement. If there's an issue with the device, like there could be with a 2000 device, you can always disconnect it to isolate it from the bus.
Normal NMEA 2000 connectors: can't remember the part number Smaller NMEA 2000 connectors: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0848549318_FIELD_ATTACHABLE.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US
volvo instrument panel parts:
Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic INSTRUMENT PANEL 12V 2001, 2001B # Description PartNo. Qty Price (DKK) 1 Instrument Panel 859057 1 Out of production WHITE COLOURED DECOR STRIPE. Replaced by: Plastplugg 858648 1 101,00 Instrumentpanel 873594 1 4 881,25 2 Instrument Panel 872798 1 435,00 3 Closure 858648 1 101,00 4 Button 843684 1 647,50 5 Rubber cap 837533 1 77,63 6 Protecting casing 858795 1 31,88 7 Buzzer 828587 1 742,50 8 Toggle switch 828584 1 320,00 Alarm 8 Toggle switch 828585 1 115,00 LIGHTING 9 Nut 828586 2 155,00 10 Symbol strip 858645 1 213,75 11 Electronic unit 873737 1 2 310,00 12 Bulb 19923 3 11,75 13 Reflector 828784 1 181,25 14 Cross recessed screw 941615 2 17,88 15 Spring washer 941904 2 0,33 16 Cross recessed screw 949947 1 1,03 17 Spring washer 941904 1 0,33 18 Screw 828647 4 11,25 19 Cable block 859037 1 1 440,00 19 CABLES AND TERMINALS
https://www.marinestore.nl/Navigatie_Stuurkompassen/c216_222/p2000001482/Danforth/Constellation_C561_HA/product_info.html https://www.marinestore.nl/Navigatie_Stuurkompassen/c216_222/index.html
Thinking about anemometers with no moving parts- it may be possible to use a cheap pressure sensor as a pitot tube, with a 360 degree cowling that funnels horizontal moving air upwards into the sensor (picture two smooth funnels inserted into each other). An apparently cheap & suitable sensor for Arduino is: http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=36_68&products_id=739 Coupled with a GPS chip to get SOG & COG, apparent and real wind speed could be directly output in NMEA0183 format. Add wind direction and done.
Pricey, but likely very useful: http://www.liquidware.com/shop/show/TSL/TouchShield+Slide
There's also: http://www.watterott.net/projects/s65-shield - but no touch. Available at http://www.watterott.com
And the 4D http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-Cf681Qurw&feature=related available here (they also have an air pressure sensor): http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_72&products_id=676
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWVA3klDIkg&feature=related http://robotsat.blogspot.com/2010/06/okay-how-about-video.html
With a GPS sensor, can get time & speed, with the speed and wind direction & wind speed, should be able to output real wind & apparent wind speeds and direction from the single anemometer sensor already mounted.
This guy has a lot of info: https://sites.google.com/site/vilorei/index/arduino—serialgpsunit
Another possibility is hacking an Archos 5 or 7, since they run linux it should be possible to code normal apps for display- the issue is input, there's only one serial port, so some kind of NMEA multiplexer & converter to ethernet or USB might be better. They come with GPS and accelerometers and all kinds of capabilities built-in.
There's also Android based hardware, http://antipastohw.blogspot.com/
http://www.haidartechnology.com/uploads/SEG-CQ57-xxxREV1.10_Hardware_Manual.pdf
http://matrixmariner.com/arduino_compass
http://www.polarnavy.com/main/prod2
Maybe a pitot tube can work accurately from 360 degrees? See below:
not suitable, but a good site: http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/wind-sensor
Another thought- light-sensing for wind speed & direction? In that case no POT or essentially any connection to moving parts would be necessary. The moving parts would simply need to be free to move, and “reading” them would be a matter of sensors. Maybe CDS's to sense the position of the vane and the flashes of anemometer cups moving by? A single white LED could be used for constant illumination.
http://www.maretron.com/products/wso100.php
Android based stuff: http://www.linuxfordevices.com/c/a/News/Androidbased-gadgets-to-ship-in-October/
Linux based media player: http://www.linuxfordevices.com/c/a/News/ZiiLabs-Zii-Egg-and-ZMS05/