Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- iw31:iw31 [2012/05/28 13:15]
ben [General]
+++ iw31:iw31 [2015/09/23 12:32]
ben
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-====== To-Do: ======
+====== sale ======
-===== Hull/Spring-launch =====
+Clan is for sale: [[iw31:sale|ad for Clan]].
-==== to-do to get mast up ====
-  * clean, sand, and varnish bulkhead
-  * <del>adjust forestay turnbuckle so it's equal on both ends (it's integral to the furler, so can't see it, need to remove line, turn the buckle completely off, then tighten it a few turns again</del> skipping this.
-  * <del>fix delaminated shroud/chain-plate board</del> used construction adhesive & screws, not the same as epoxy, but likely good enough considering how bad it was
-  * <del>drill drain holes in mast foot box</del> single hole drilled
-  * <del>re-attach shrouds and stays</del>
-  * <del>attach spreader end-covers (cable ties? white line? self-amalgamating tape?)</del>
-  * <del>find material to put beneath mast foot to raise height- strong plastic? cheap cutting board maybe?</del>
-  * <del>tin spreader wiring if there's time</del>
-  * <del>replace topping lift line with halyard and add external topping lift</del>
-  * <del>check mast wiring is good</del>
-  * <del>fix stiffness on forestay turnbuckle</del>
-  * <del>drill drain hole in mast foot</del>
-  * <del>clean spreader lamp fixtures w/wd-40</del>
-  * <del>attach bracket on port spreader for flags</del>
-  * <del>re-wire spreader lamp fixtures</del>  wire was good enough
-  * <del>shorten below-deck conduit bracket and use only 1 nut</del>
-  * <del>oil sheaves</del>
-  * <del>get self-amalgamating tape and apply to jib halyard cable splice</del>
-  * <del>re-wire motor lamp fixture</del>
-  * <del>install masthead lamp</del>
-  * <del>cut new wooden foot blocks from something, any solid wood for now</del>
-  * <del>install conduit with hole mid-mast for spreader and motor wiring</del>  That wasn't much fun.
-    * <del>run nmea 2000 cable, mast-head cable, vhf cable</del>
-    * <del>re-run halyards since they had to be pulled to get the conduit in right</del>
-==== the rest ====
-  * <del>re-install VHF N-connector</del>
-  * <del>tin mast light wiring ends</del>
-  * double-clamp all hoses & tubing
-  * <del>measure tubing for head & cockpit drains</del> -  - 1.5in/38mm
-  * <del>replace cockpit drain tubing and clamps can replace cockpit drain tubing in the water?- fitting is 1.5in/38mm diameter</del> boom! major drain tubing done, only need to replace the deck level stuff. painful job but will probably sleep a little better.
-  * install some motor insulation and repair the engine cover where it's splitting at the joints
-  * scrape & paint keel bolts
-  * replace & reseal windows - we need to get new bolts, some galvanized were used, 20 bolts each.
-  * reseal all deck/cockpit hardware and rails (big, big job)
-  * add ball valve to exhaust through-hull?
-  * add ball valve to bilge through-hull?
-  * clean and paint bilges
-  * re-join slight split in bulkhead joint near mast, maybe wore out due to standing water soaking into bulkhead, or maybe due to 40 years of stress?
-  * <del>paint topsides?</del>won't happen this season
-  * <del>new ball valves where necessary</del> not necessary
-  * <del>replace speed log through-hull w/ tri-ducer</del><del>need to grease and insert the unit in the new through-hull fitting</del>
-  * <del>inspect & grease stuffing box</del>
-  * <del>grease ball-valves if necessary</del> all seem well
-  * <del>replace prop-shaft zinc</del>
-  * <del>grease prop</del>
-  * <del>charge battery</del>
-  * <del>re-install battery, ensure motor cranks over</del>
-  * <del>re-install tiller just for launch</del>
-  * <del>spot prime & anti-foul</del>
-  * <del>//maybe// re-grease cock-pit drain sea-cocks</del> - they were serviced mid-last season, still a lot of grease present
-  * find and repair the soft spots- how bad is it? VERY BAD.  Found approximately <del>50</del> soft spots today - panic-driven mis-count, more like 35, some of which were miss diagnosed or not urgent, the outlook is still good.  Hull thickness is approx. 9/16ths (14+mm) without gel-coat.  <del>Sanding them out tomorrow, begin filling on sunday.</del> Filled, need sanding, then priming.
+====== photos ======
-===== Mast =====
+[[http://www.benhall.com/tag/iw-31/|http://www.benhall.com/tag/iw-31/]]
-  * extend mainsail track down to boom or replace it - finally found a source for the old stuff: http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Track/Sailtrack.htm
+====== docs ======
-  * replace spinnaker slide - make one from scratch and save 600dkk for a crappy one
-  * connectors would be nice for the spreader lights- maybe gold-plated headphone male & females? another season...
-  * <del>install conduit inside mast (was fix cables inside mast to something, they sway too much)</del>
-    * <del>can use rivets via assembling the conduit, drilling hole in mast, inserting conduit, marking it, removing it, then drilling.  repeat, ensuring previous holes are lined up by inserting a screw/nail/rivet/whatever in each.</del>  Went with: "Otherwise stainless threaded rod bent in wide U's can be used to seat the conduit against one forward quarter."
-    * <del>need good rivets to re-install mast foot</del>
-    * <del>need good cable for lighting</del> found some thick-jacketed marine cable, 1.5mm conductor
-    * <del>maybe need N-connectors for VHF antenna</del>
-    * <del>could use stainless threaded rod, bent 90 degrees to clamp the conduit in 4 places, can line up where holes should be at the top.</del>  This worked.
-    * <del>silvan has a 1" inner diameter industrial garden hose, seems like it might be perfect.  i think it's 15m in length.</del>  Used 1" drain pipe in 2m sections
-    * <del>motor lamp and spreader lights need a second run.</del>  Run in the same conduit, ran cables first, then pulled through the mid-mast entries while feeding the conduit into the mast.
-  * <del>re-wire lighting cables to include anchor light, replace other aging cables</del>
-  * <del>install new led anchor/nav combo light</del>
-  * <del>replace foot blocks, they're rotten</del>
-  * <del>replace topping lift line</del>
-  * <del>drill-out/replace spinnaker adjustment point (knob broken, screw seized)</del>
-===== Rigging =====
+Original sales materials: {{:iw31:iw_31_brochure.zip|iw_31_brochure.zip}}
+====== to-do: ======
-  * widen holes through "german solution" and spray rail to reduce friction on main & spinnaker halyards
+The giant to-do list is now [[iw31:to-do|here.]]
-  * adjust halyard exit sheaves to roll better (main & topping lift sheaves rub together), maybe replace with something [[http://n-u.dk/product/faldindfoerer-rf-krum-32x83-7362/|like this]]
-  * reinforce/re-attach chain plate boards to hull below deck
-  * install new backstay adjuster
-  * install block on out-haul
-  * replace reefing blocks
-  * run reefing lines to cockpit
-  * run topping lift line to cockpit
-  * run out-haul to cockpit
-  * install secondary winch in place of compass
-===== Sails =====
+====== links: ======
-  * repair tear in mainsail
-  * re-attach jib UV cover
-===== Engine =====
-  * replace fuel-injector sleeve o-ring
-===== Electric/Instrument =====
-  * consider using garmin NMEA 2000 connectors for mast lamp wiring- they're waterproof and available:
-    * http://www.nordjysk-marine.dk/product/nmea-200-loest-hun-stik-1000051/ & http://www.nordjysk-marine.dk/product/nmea-2000-loest-han-stik-1000050/
-  * repair engine instrument panel warning lights, switches, and alarm
-  * <del>replace masthead lamp with tri-color & anchor LED fixture</del>
-  * wire masthead switch for tri-color vs. led
-  * <del>replace motor lamp with LED</del>
-  * hell, replace all lamps with LED
-  * replace switch panel & fuse box with joint switch and breaker switch panel (see mouser link elsewhere for 30v 10amp panel-mount breakers)
-    * need gas solonoid, nav lights, engine light, anchor light, spreader lights, instruments, auto-pilot/aux, cabin lights, water pump (that's 10 so far)
-  * replace main battery switch w/ 2-battery system
-  * add house battery
-  * move battery to enclosed battery box, under starboard berth, forward of the bulkhead
-  * move battery(ies) to engine area? maybe build a shelf just below the storage area?
-  * replace aux power socket for spot light/cooler (replace connectors on both)
-  * replace lamp cables in mast and install waterproof connectors rather than use terminal strips
-  * for cheaper fuse panels, consider [[http://dk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-PB/W28-XQ1A-2/?qs=xM7gXedB8kYqD1WTwGya%2fqvThJznDNlxYXkyvitblx0%3d|circuit breaker inserts from Mouser]], otherwise [[http://n-u.dk/product/el-panel-med-4-afbrydere-12388/|probably use expensive 4 panel breakers]]
-===== General =====
-  * move gas line, it's currently snaked around.  should be along the deck or hull the entire stretch (drill a hole in the bulkhead rather than route to the space that's there)
-  * re-do gas locker installation- the container is mounted too high (ISO standard is a minimum of 3" clearance above the at-rest waterline fully loaded, we're way above that), does not have a gasket or latches to seal the lid, and has two fittings outside the locker (one valve at the stove, one joint to copper near the locker) where leaks would drain into the boat.  it may be best to build in a suitable locker with space for fittings and gauges.
-  * install gas solenoid shut-off
-  * install gas gauge
-  * clean & paint bilges
-  * install new hose for the head, install new anti-syphon loop
-  * move tools to tool bag instead of box
-  * revarnish table
-  * revarnish all over
-  * re-sew spray hood windows
-  * repair fiberglass at traveller end points & install stops
-  * drill hole in mast foot to allow drainage into bilge
-  * lengthen/add loop to secondary bilge pump line
-  * [[#faucet_replacement|replace faucet & sink in head]]
-  * sew new curtains and install new curtain rods
-  * install panel compasses (danforth a140 dual-read seems like a nice idea)
-  * replace instruments?
-  * panel mount Garmin, perhaps with hidden padlock?
-  * convert old winches to internal ratcheting? would need to replace bottom center gear with 3 or 4 small ratchets (pawls I think?) instead... need to sketchup something first.  basically the idea would be to cut off the gear from the shaft, and install 4 pins with 4 pawls.
-  * remove side lantern mounts on pulpit
-  * remove stern lantern & mount from stern rail
-  * remove stern lantern cabling
-  * remove wall paper, glue, oil teak, re-vaneer where necessary
-  * shorten starboard quarter berth and install nav desk
-  * make two cushions for cockpit table
-  * replace seal on instrument panel, maybe replace the entire enclosure with a custom box
-  * add chain locker in the bow? could be a complicated modification, could use a bronze port into the lower area with little more modification than cutting a hole
-  * repair hatch
-  * repair hatch seal & add pins to closing shackles
-  * re-glass ventilator boxes
-  * <del>repair/replace ventilators</del>
-  * <del>get ventilator covers</del>
-  * <del>remove lobster</del>
-  * <del>sand & varnish tiller</del>
-  * <del>install depth sounder (create 4" diameter flat spot in front of keel using epoxy)</del> not necessary
-===== Winterize 2011 =====
-==== Winter ====
-=== engine ===
-  * <del>Top up tank</del>
-  * <del>Replace coolant with 50/50 coolant water mix</del>
-  * <del>Pump coolant/water mix through sea water system</del>
-  * <del>Change oil</del> Omitting since it was changed mid season
-  * <del>Remove impeller & inspect</del> Impeller is good
-  * Change fuel filter
-  * Empty water separator
-==== Spring ====
-=== engine ===
-  * Clean, dry & paint
-  * Check anodes
-  * Maybe get a clear/easier to see through over-flow/coolant bottle
-  * Get spare relay
-  * Check thermostat
-  * Check temp sensors if possible
-  * Check & likely replace Alarm
-===== on-going =====
-  * change oil & filter (done 9/7/2011)
-==== Stuffing Box ====
-  * grease gummy "stuffing box" (done 8/4/2012)
-I learned a lot I think the morning of 17/04/2012 when Clan went back in the water.  The stuffing box I had greased was letting water pour in at a pretty alarming rate, and if I pushed or prodded the rubber around water flowed in more like the rate of a faucet.  My inspection and grease the week before was apparently quite inadequate.  I managed to slip grease in by pinching and sliding the end of a cable/zip-tie loaded with marine grease in, then un-pinching and sliding it back out.  About an hour of doing this and the water came to drips, and not long after that, stopped all together.
-===== Done: =====
-  * replace water tank (maybe a smaller tank or a hard tank would have been better)
-  * mount water pump
-  * mount deck organizer to better route main & spinnaker halyards back to cockpit
-  * un-seize current backstay adjuster
-  * remove old stereo
-  * remove old cables from bilge
-  * patch leaks in jib traveler bolts
-  * patch leak in spinnaker boom deck support
-  * replace caulk/filler at shroud & stay chain plates (used sikaflex)
-  * move last jib reefing block up on stanchion to reduce wear
-===== Equipment needed: =====
-  * <del>life ring</del> & <del>man overboard light</del> & <del>throw line</del>
-  * <del>flares, 3 white, 3 parachute?</del>
-  * LED Lamps
-  * panel mount compass<del>es</del> (danforth saturn dual-read) - a single compass in the instrument box?
-  * for jib conversions, Harken Unit 0 uses #6 (6/32" or 5 mm) luff tape: [[http://www.sailmakerssupply.com/prod_detail_list/62|www.sailmakerssupply.com]] or [[http://search.sailrite.com/category/furling-reefing-spinnaker-sock-sleeve-uv-sacrificial-sail-kits-projects|www.sailrite.com]] or [[http://sailcloth.co.uk/index.asp?selection=detailed&uid=15898&catref=Sail%20Accessories&InBox=Leech%20Line%20and%20Luff%20Tape&cct=12&TypeSearch=&subcat=Rope|sailcloth.co.uk]]
-==== ice box ====
-Currently we have a crappy electric cooler, which if I've done the math right, uses more battery (around 4 amps for a new one) than a real compressor.
-The Isotherm units look okay: [[http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=site:.dk+2005+Classic+Compact&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#hl=en&safe=off&client=safari&rls=en&sclient=psy-ab&q=site%3A.dk+isotherm+%22Classic+Compact%22&oq=site:.dk+isotherm+%22Classic+Compact%22&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_l=serp.3...56962l57584l2l57793l2l2l0l0l0l0l90l162l2l2l0.frgbld.&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=f85e188e4be29462&biw=1273&bih=646|specifically the Classic Compact 2005/6]]
-Tempo has [[http://tempobaadudstyr.dk/product/isotherm-2006-classic-compact-15897/|the 2006]], a larger plate than the 2005, for 3500dkk.  They also have a [[http://tempobaadudstyr.dk/product/byg-din-egen-koeleboks-isoleringsplade-15802/|køleskab kit]] with insulation etc, for 1270dkk.  An expensive pair, but it will allow us to make use of a space we can't currently reach (sealed off behind the stove), and allow us to get more space by getting rid of the giant cooler.
-Silvan has [[http://eshop.silvan.dk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/vare_Jackon_154770___|this "super EPS" insulation]], very cheap, but only in 140mm thickness (too thick).  They also have [[http://eshop.silvan.dk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/vare_Jackopor_56253___|the cheaper stuff]], which is probably perfectly adequate.
-For running off of shore power, a battery charger with at least 5 amp capacity (more is obviously better) is recommended.
-Found one person's from-scratch installation on a [[http://www.s-billenstein.dk/Koeleskab/Koel.htm|Marieholm 26, here]].
-Because of the very narrow opening for the locker (15.5cm), we'll likely need to have the "front" section of insulation partially attached to the lid, going vertically down, with an angled transition so we can fit things in more easily (need to sketch this).  Insulation is supposed to be 10cm/4in. all around.
-The Isotherm's use a Danfoss BD35, dimensions of the compressor are: 10.63" x 6.31" x 13" or 27cm x 16cm x 33cm.
-The manual for a 2006 specifies insulation of 5cm thickness for a 2.8 cu. in. box, we'll have roughly a 2.6 cu. in. box, so 5cm/2" thickness it is.
-The locker:
-{{:iw31:ice-box3.png?direct&200|}}{{:iw31:ice-box4.png?direct&200|}}
-===== Task break-down =====
-==== Faucet replacement ====
-  * <del>replace last section of tubing to both faucets - need X size hose.</del>
-  * <del>install pressure switch</del>
-  * <del>install in-line disable/override switch</del>
-  * add breaker for water pump
-  * add damper
-====== Links: ======
 ===== Other IW31's =====
@@ Line 265: / Line 45: @@
 http://www.youtube.com/user/essen222 (commented on a video that he owns an IW 31) \\
 https://picasaweb.google.com/116970321897372292619/IW31Havskum# \\
+http://www.faaborg-vaerft.dk/Faaborg_Vaerft_A/S osmosis treatment in DK \\
-===== Sailing =====
+===== sailing =====
@@ Line 272: / Line 52: @@
 [[http://www.skipperguide.de/wiki/Hallands_Väderö|http://www.skipperguide.de/wiki/Hallands_Väderö]] \\
-===== Equipment =====
+===== equipment =====
-Bronze equipment (from the U.S.) they have a bronze chain-cover, bronze bow-roller, and an awesome "mid-rail" chock that has a cleat in the center (just realized we can't do the mid-rail chock because the genoa car track is over the center of the rail): \\
+[[iw31:iw31:equipment|Equipment/wish-list/suppliers]]
-http://spartanmarine.com/catalog.html \\
-Also bronze cast parts from Port Townsend Foundry: \\
+===== Other Notes & Links =====
-http://www.porttownsendfoundry.com/ \\
-There's also casting one from scratch: http://students.washington.edu/sailing/telltale/fall2000/bronze.html \\
+[[iw31:iw31:notes|Odd-ball notes & links]]
-Volvo parts: \\
+[[:iw31:weather_fax|Weather Fax]]
-http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7726000-30-11707.aspx \\
-Acrylic/Windows: \\
-http://plastbutikken.dk/produkter/27-akryl-plexiglas/ \\
-===== Heating Links =====
-==== Charcoal ====
-http://www.bengco.co.uk/ \\
-http://www.sigmarine.com/manuals/SIG%20Solid%20Fuel%20Heater%20Manual%202011-2.pdf \\
-http://www.peluke.com/Site/Fireplaces.html \\
-http://www.pascallatkey.co.uk \\
-==== Diesel ====
-http://www.refleks-olieovne.dk/default.asp?PageNumber=3460 \\
-http://www.refleks-olieovne.dk/default.asp?PageNumber=3456 \\
-http://www.dickinsonmarine.com/dheaters.php \\
-====== docs ======
-Original sales materials: {{:iw31:iw_31_brochure.zip|iw_31_brochure.zip}}
   * mast length is 12.5m
-===== Instrumentation =====
+I'm not entirely certain I've put in the correct numbers for all the calculations correctly, but here are our general performance & stability numbers (from [[http://www.sailingcourse.com/keelboat/design_winds.htm|sailingcourse.com]]):
-Things I'd like to have are:
-==== A battery monitor ====
-[[http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slus037a/slus037a.pdf|TI bq2050 single-wire serial output IC]]\\
-[[http://www.societyofrobots.com/member_tutorials/node/101|DW2438 based monitor]]\\
-[[http://tropicarduino.blogspot.com/2010/11/arduino-solar-battery-monitor.html|Someone's nice Arduino based with Hall-effect current sensor]]\\
-[[http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/ammeters/rv-battery-monitor.html|cheap-o off-the-shelf model]]\\
-[[http://www.maretron.com/products/dcm100.php|Expensive Maretron NMEA 2000 model with current sensor]]\\
-[[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=36_61&products_id=474|Hall-effect sensor chip]]
-This one is a wind speed & current sensor for a wind generator, but has aspects useful for battery/power monitoring:\\  [[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/node/135|Wind generator speed sensor]]
-==== Wind Sensor ====
-==== Depth Sensor ====
-I already have an NMEA 0183 output smart depth transducer, but could I convert the output to NMEA 2000?
-==== NMEA 2000 Bus ====
-NMEA 2000 is based on the CAN bus spec, at 250khz transmission rate.  Sparkfun has CAN bus Arduino shields, which I've ordered and will attempt to reverse engineer the NMEA 2000 messages with.  The bus contains two wires for power, and two for serial data.  It's terminated with 120 ohm resistors, so it should look like 60 ohms to a meter.  More info:
-[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Controller_area_network|Controller_area_network]]\\
-[[http://www.can-cia.de/index.php?id=490|CAN info from the CiA]]\\
-[[http://www.can-cia.de/index.php?id=496|J1939 message format notes from the CiA]]\\
-=== Stealing Power ===
-I have a couple of NMEA 2000 instruments now, but my plotter is older and not NMEA 2000 capable.  That makes cabling the old stuff still a little painful- however, not if one powers known to be low-powered devices off the NMEA 2000 bus by using a field-installable male connector with only power connections wired.  I tested with my 3005c plotter, old NMEA 0183 17HVS antenna, and don't see any issue with this arrangement.  If there's an issue with the device, like there could be with a 2000 device, you can always disconnect it to isolate it from the bus.
-Normal NMEA 2000 connectors: can't remember the part number
-Smaller NMEA 2000 connectors: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0848549318_FIELD_ATTACHABLE.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US
-====== Odd-ball notes ======
-volvo instrument panel parts:
-<code>Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic INSTRUMENT PANEL 12V
-, 2001B
-#	Description	PartNo.	Qty	Price (DKK)
-	Instrument Panel 	859057	1 	 Out of production
- 	WHITE COLOURED DECOR STRIPE.
- 	Replaced by:
- 	Plastplugg	858648	1 	 101,00
- 	Instrumentpanel	873594	1 	 4 881,25
-	Instrument Panel 	872798	1 	 435,00
-	Closure 	858648	1 	 101,00
-	Button 	843684	1 	 647,50
-	Rubber cap 	837533	1 	 77,63
-	Protecting casing 	858795	1 	 31,88
-	Buzzer 	828587	1 	 742,50
-	Toggle switch 	828584	1 	 320,00
- 	Alarm
-	Toggle switch 	828585	1 	 115,00
- 	LIGHTING
-	Nut 	828586	2 	 155,00
-	Symbol strip 	858645	1 	 213,75
-	Electronic unit 	873737	1 	 2 310,00
-	Bulb 	19923	3 	 11,75
-	Reflector 	828784	1 	 181,25
-	Cross recessed screw 	941615	2 	 17,88
-	Spring washer 	941904	2 	 0,33
-	Cross recessed screw 	949947	1 	 1,03
-	Spring washer 	941904	1 	 0,33
-	Screw 	828647	4 	 11,25
-	Cable block 	859037	1 	 1 440,00
-	CABLES AND TERMINALS
-</code>
-https://www.marinestore.nl/Navigatie_Stuurkompassen/c216_222/p2000001482/Danforth/Constellation_C561_HA/product_info.html
-https://www.marinestore.nl/Navigatie_Stuurkompassen/c216_222/index.html
-Thinking about anemometers with no moving parts- it may be possible to use a cheap pressure sensor as a pitot tube, with a 360 degree cowling that funnels horizontal moving air upwards into the sensor (picture two smooth funnels inserted into each other).  An apparently cheap & suitable sensor for Arduino is: http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=36_68&products_id=739  Coupled with a GPS chip to get SOG & COG, apparent and real wind speed could be directly output in NMEA0183 format.  Add wind direction and done.
-Pricey, but likely very useful: http://www.liquidware.com/shop/show/TSL/TouchShield+Slide
-There's also: http://www.watterott.net/projects/s65-shield - but no touch.  Available at http://www.watterott.com
-And the 4D http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-Cf681Qurw&feature=related available here (they also have an air pressure sensor): http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_72&products_id=676
-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWVA3klDIkg&feature=related
-http://robotsat.blogspot.com/2010/06/okay-how-about-video.html
-With a GPS sensor, can get time & speed, with the speed and wind direction & wind speed, should be able to output real wind & apparent wind speeds and direction from the single anemometer sensor already mounted.
-This guy has a lot of info: https://sites.google.com/site/vilorei/index/arduino—serialgpsunit
-Another possibility is hacking an Archos 5 or 7, since they run linux it should be possible to code normal apps for display- the issue is input, there's only one serial port, so some kind of NMEA multiplexer & converter to ethernet or USB might be better.  They come with GPS and accelerometers and all kinds of capabilities built-in.
-There's also Android based hardware, http://antipastohw.blogspot.com/
-http://www.haidartechnology.com/uploads/SEG-CQ57-xxxREV1.10_Hardware_Manual.pdf
-http://matrixmariner.com/arduino_compass
-http://www.polarnavy.com/main/prod2
-http://dk.mouser.com:80/Circuit-Protection/Circuit-Breakers/_/N-u7f4?P=1yzu25aZ1z0s76mZ1z0s759Z1yzub35Z1z0z812Z1yzulet&Keyword=10+amp+circuit+breaker&FS=True
-Maybe a pitot tube can work accurately from 360 degrees?  See below:
-{{:rini:pitot_anemometer_housing.png?direct&200|}}
-not suitable, but a good site: http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/wind-sensor
-Another thought- light-sensing for wind speed & direction? In that case no POT or essentially any connection to moving parts would be necessary.  The moving parts would simply need to be free to move, and "reading" them would be a matter of sensors.  Maybe CDS's to sense the position of the vane and the flashes of anemometer cups moving by?  A single white LED could be used for constant illumination.
-http://www.maretron.com/products/wso100.php
-Android based stuff: http://www.linuxfordevices.com/c/a/News/Androidbased-gadgets-to-ship-in-October/
-Linux based media player: http://www.linuxfordevices.com/c/a/News/ZiiLabs-Zii-Egg-and-ZMS05/
+  * The maximum speed of the boat is: 6.29 knots (22ft. at water line)
+  * The Sail Area Displacement Ratio is: 15.57. The sailboat is a cruiser-racer.
+  * The Displacement to Length Ratio is: 332.75. The sailboat is a heavy displacement cruiser.
+  * The Motion Comfort Ratio is: 27.68
+  * The Stability of the boat is: 1.74 (Stability is predicted !!) (anything less than 2 is considered stable)
+  * The screening stability value of the boat is: 14.81
+  * Angle of Vanishing Stability is 193.09 (estimated a 0.7m draft of hull without keel, will try to measure this season) (anything above 120 is good, above 140 is better)
+  * Ballast Displacement Ratio: %44
-http://www.linuxfordevices.com/c/a/Linux-For-Devices-Articles/Linux-PDAs-PMPs-PNDs-and-other-Handhelds/
-http://pcinst.imolesworth.info/tiki-index.php?page=NMEA

..., etc.

User Tools

Site Tools

Differences

Page Tools